Archive for the ‘Windows and Doors’ Category

Following these tips and instructions on how to remove and replace broken window glass can help save you time, money and effort. Inside this document you will find information about:

• Preparing for the New Window Glass
• Installing New Glass
• Adding the Finishing Touches
• Replacing Glass on Doors

PREPARING FOR THE NEW WINDOW GLASS

• Although removing and replacing windowpanes is not a difficult job, doing the job right requires a certain amount of attention and skill. There is a lot more to it than just inserting a new windowpane and adding a little putty.
• You can use the instructions here for a windowpane of almost any size. However, if the windowpane is a large one, you should remove the complete window frame and place it on a flat surface before attempting to remove the broken glass or to install the new glass.
• The first step is removing the broken glass. Use care on this phase of the job-obviously, broken pieces of glass can be very dangerous. Wear work gloves to protect your hands while removing the broken pieces of glass from the frame.
• A shattered windowpane can be removed quite easily (see image). Pull one broken piece out at a time. Be sure to wear protective gloves while doing this. Don’t take chances!

• If the glass is only cracked, you may need to remove most or all of the putty in order to take out the broken glass. Regardless of which way you do it, use extreme care to protect your arms from cuts.
• Next, remove the old putty from the window frame. You can use a wood chisel, a putty knife or a jackknife (see image). Take time to remove every trace of the old putty.
• Break the old putty into little pieces as you remove it. If you try to remove too much putty at one time, you may split the wood frame on the window.

• Remove all the glazier’s points as you remove the putty. Glazier’s points are the small metal triangles driven into the frame underneath the putty that hold the glass in place.
• Some putty may be extremely difficult to remove. If this is the case, you can use a heat source such as a heat gun or soldering tool to soften the old putty, which makes it much easier to remove.
• Run the heat source along the putty just ahead of your chisel (see image). The heat will soften the putty. This allows the putty to pull away from the wood frame much more easily.

• Take your time when removing old putty, since this is an important part of a glass replacement. By using heat, a good putty knife or chisel, and a little patience, you can remove even hardened putty that is well-set quite easily.
• After completely removing the old putty and the glazier’s points, use the point of the chisel or the knife to smooth out any rough spots in the wood frame where the new glass will be inserted.
• If you are replacing glass in an old window, take a small paintbrush and apply a heavy coat of linseed oil to all sections of the wood around the frame (see image). Allow the oil to completely soak in.
• Linseed oil on the frame helps keep the oil in the putty from soaking out, which causes the putty to dry out quickly. If you saturate the wood with linseed oil before applying the putty, the new putty remains pliable and lasts much longer.

• While pure linseed oil works in most cases, check the label on the putty you are using. The manufacturer may have another recommendation.
• After you have removed the old putty and applied the linseed oil to the frame, apply a very thin layer (about 1/16″) of putty completely around the frame where the new glass will be set (see image). Make sure the base layer of putty is not too thick.
• This thin layer of putty on the window frame provides a cushion for the new glass to be inserted in. This cushion also stops the leakage of air around the glass and prevents it from resting directly against the wood.

INSTALLING NEW GLASS

• Now that you have removed the old putty and the frame is ready for the glass, you can insert the replacement glass in the frame.
• The replacement glass must be exactly the right size. If it is not, cut it to size with a good glass cutter. The new pane should be just a fraction of an inch smaller than the window area it is to fill.
• Insert the new windowpane into the frame carefully (see image). Press it down firmly.
• Hold the new pane in position with one hand and insert a glazier’s point on each side to secure the pane firmly in place. The glazier’s points can be inserted with only a small amount of pressure.

• Insert additional glazier’s points about every 4″ apart, completely around the new pane of glass (see image).
• Lay each glazier’s point flat against the glass and start it into the wood with the point of the combination glazing tool or putty knife. Then, use the glazing tool to drive the glazier’s points into the wood.
• Slide the glazing tool along the glass to eliminate the danger of breaking it. It takes only a light blow to drive the small glazier’s point into the wood.
• Be sure to keep the glazier’s points firmly against the glass wherever they are applied.
• Putty should be the consistency of rather dry, thick dough when it is applied. If it is too stiff, thin it down with the manufacturer’s recommended thinner.
• You can use an old piece of glass as a kneading board for working the putty into the right shape and consistency.

• Knead the putty until it is completely pliable and free of lumps. Then roll it into pencil-size strips.
• Take a roll of putty into your hands and start applying it in one corner of the window frame (see image). Lay the strip in the frame completely around the new piece of glass.
• When the putty is completely in place, smooth it out with a putty knife or scraper/glazer using long, even strokes.
• Hold the glazing tool at an angle and be sure it is clean. Any corrosion or rust on the knife will make it difficult to do a smooth, neat job.
• Your glazing tool will work better if you dip it into a can of linseed oil just before using it to spread putty.
• Use long, corner-to-corner strokes with the glazing tool Don’t spread the putty so far out on the new windowpane that it is visible from the other side.

• A combination scraper and glazer tool makes the job of glazing windows even easier (see image). The angled blade rides along the front surface of the window as it forms the bevel on the putty. The other end of the tool is a scraper for removing old putty.
• Whether you use a putty knife or a scraper/glazer, it may be difficult at first. However, with a little practice, you can smooth out the putty completely around the windowpane (see first image below). Keep smoothing until the putty takes on a neat, finished appearance.
• Study the second image below to see how to place the putty on the frame. It should cover the glazier’s points, which are illustrated, and be set at an angle so it holds the glass firmly in place without showing from the opposite side of the window.
• Scrape completely around the area puttied, and remove any excess putty in corners or along the edges.
• A fine grade of sandpaper may be helpful in eliminating rough spots.

ADDING THE FINISHING TOUCHES

• Check the label on the putty you are using for painting instructions. You may be able to paint the putty right away or you may have to wait. This depends on the manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Use at least two coats of outside paint for a good job.
• One of the easiest ways to paint window frames is to allow the paint to cover not only the putty but also part of the glass. Don’t worry about straight edges (see image).

• Use a razorblade scraper for removing the extra paint from the glass. Run the scraper about 1/8″ away from the edge of the putty (see image). Be careful not to gouge the putty.
• There are products that when applied to the glass before painting make removing the excess paint easier.
• Make sure the putty left over from your job is kept airtight-it will remain usable for many months.

REPLACING GLASS ON DOORS

• Although most window glasses are held in position with putty, the glass on many doors is held in place with thin wood strips (see image). Building code in most areas requires safety glazing materials in entrance doors.
• If the pane of glass on a door is broken, you can remove and replace these wood strips without putty.
• First, pry out the strip on the long side using a screwdriver, a putty knife or some other prying instrument. Always remove the long side first. After removing one strip, the others will come out easily.
• After the strips are removed, use a pair of pliers to remove the small brad nails or to pull them through the wood strips.

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

Glass Cutter	Putty
Putty Knife or Scraper/Glazer	Glass of Proper Size
Paint	Window Scraper
Hand Cleaner	Metal Shield
Work Gloves	Linseed Oil
Chisel	Heat Gun or Soldering Tool
Razorblade Scraper	Paintbrush
Glazier’s Points	Pliers

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the North American Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

Patio doors are one of the most popular features in any home. This brochure describes the basic procedures for installing prehung French and swinging patio doors, and for sliding patio doors. This is always a two-person job. Keep in mind that the procedures may vary for different brands of systems. Wherever those instructions differ, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

In this document you will find information about:

• Types of French and Patio Doors
• Installation

TYPES OF FRENCH AND PATIO DOORS

• There are three types of doors that often are lumped together under the category “patio door.” They are:
  • Sliding Patio Doors (see image) may be two-, three-, or four-panels wide. They are sold “knocked down”-i.e., the frame and door panels are packaged separately, and the unit must be assembled on the job site. Available frame materials are aluminum, wood, or PVC vinyl (typically reinforced with steel or aluminum for extra strength). Aluminum patio doors are generally the least expensive, but also the least durable and energy efficient. Vinyl occupies the mid-range in both price and quality, and wood is considered top of the line.

• • A two-panel sliding door has one active (sliding) panel and one inactive (stationary) panel. It may be assembled with the active unit on either side. A three-panel door has one active and two inactive panels; the active panel is typically on one side or the other rather than in the center, for the added security of being able to lock to the jamb. A four-panel door typically has two active panels in the center, and two inactive panels outside.
  • Swinging Patio Doors (see image) are typically two or three panels wide. As a rule, the active panel is hinged to an inactive panel, with the latch at one of the side jambs, although three-panel units may have the active panel in the center.
  • Swinging patio doors are available in wood, PVC vinyl, or in insulated steel or fiberglass. In general, a swinging door tends to be more secure and more energy efficient than a sliding door.

• French Doors (see image) are hinged at the outside of the unit and contain at least two active panels that swing in or out from the center of the unit. At one time they were considered less secure than swinging patio doors because the active panels were locked to each other rather than a permanent jamb. With the advent of three-point locking systems that secure the door to the head jamb and the sill, French door security is much improved. French doors are typically available only in wood.

INSTALLATION

• To install a prehung French or patio door, first unpack the new door unit. There may be skid boards or other framing attached to protect the system during transit. Remove any protective materials; if the unit has prehanging clips to keep the door aligned and closed, do not remove them.
• Swinging Patio Door (two-panel prehung unit, center hinged)-Run beads of caulking along the floor where the threshold/sill will rest. From the outside, center the bottom of the unit in the opening and tilt it up into place.
• Adjust the unit so the face is plumb, then secure the inactive-side jamb to the wall framing temporarily with two 3″-long drywall screws, placed about 6″ below the head jamb and above the sill.
• Go inside the house and shim and check the gap along the top of the active door. It should be even along the entire width of the door from the hinge jamb to the latch jamb. If the gap is too wide above the latch jamb, drive a shim under the sill directly beneath the latch jamb until the gap is even. If the gap is too narrow above the latch jamb, drive the shim directly beneath the hinge jamb.
• Once the gap is even, recheck to make sure the unit is plumb. Then shim the latch jamb, checking it with a straightedge as you work to make sure you don’t drive the shims too far and bow the jamb. Shim about 6″ below the top of the unit, 6″ above the sill and both above and below the lock.

• Be careful not to allow the unit to be twisted; the inside edge of the jamb should be flush with the interior wall surface at all points. DO NOT SHIM ABOVE THE HEAD JAMB.
• Place the carpenter’s square at the corners to make sure the unit is square; if not, add shims below the sill. Shim the inactive-side jamb in four locations evenly spaced along the jamb. Drive the shims snug but not too tight. Then go back outside and secure the inactive-side jamb with two 3″ drywall screws through each pair of shims. You may want to countersink the screw holes to fill with wood putty later on.
• From inside, check again to make sure the face of the unit is plumb and that the gap between the door and jamb is even along the top and down the latch-side jamb. Drive 3″ drywall screws through the latch jamb into the wall framing at each pair of shims.
• Check the bottom of the door to make sure the door sweep makes even contact with the threshold across the entire width of the door. Adjust the threshold as needed.

• Inside the house, stuff fiberglass insulation into the gap between the door jamb and the wall framing. Make it snug, but don’t stuff it in too tightly. Nail the brick mold 16″ on center outside and install the interior casing.
• On the outside, caulk around the outside of the brick mold where it meets the siding. Finish the door according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• French Doors (two-panel prehung unit)-Run heavy beads of caulking along the floor where the sill will rest. From the outside, center the bottom of the unit in the opening and tilt it up into place.
• Adjust the unit so the face is plumb, then secure one hinge jamb temporarily with a 3″ drywall screw placed about 6″ below the head jamb. Leave a small gap between the jamb and the wall stud.
• Use a level and a straightedge to make sure the head jamb is level and straight across the entire width of the unit. Shim under the sill directly below either hinge jamb if necessary. Insert shims directly behind the top hinges on both sides, taking care not to drive the shims in too hard (you don’t want to bow the jamb). Drive two 3″ drywall screws just above the top hinges on both sides.

• Check the gap between the doors and the head jamb to make sure it is even across the entire width of the unit. If not, the unit is out of square. Adjust it as shown here.
• Once the unit is square and level, shim behind the center and bottom hinges on both hinge jambs. Secure the hinge jamb with two 3″ drywall screws just above the center and bottom hinges. Remove any prehanging clips or braces and test both doors to make sure they operate properly.
• From inside the house, stuff fiberglass insulation into the gap between the door jamb and the wall framing. Make it snug, but don’t stuff it in too tightly. Nail the brick mold 16″ on center outside, and install the interior casing.
• On the outside, caulk around the outside of the brick mold where it meets the siding. Finish the door according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Sliding Patio Doors-Installing a sliding patio door is a little different because the unit generally doesn’t come prehung. Consequently, the first step is to assemble the frame.
• Once the frame is assembled, run heavy beads of caulking along the floor where the sill will rest. From the outside, center the bottom of the frame in the opening and tilt it up into place.
• Adjust the frame so the face is plumb, then shim behind one hinge jamb near the top. Secure it temporarily.
• Use a level and a straightedge to make sure the head jamb is level across the entire width of the frame. Shim under the sill directly below either side jamb if necessary. Shim the other side jamb near the top and secure it with a screw.
• Use a level to plumb one side jamb, and shim at three more points along the jamb, spaced evenly from the top to the bottom. Secure that jamb, then repeat the process on the other side.
• Once the frame is square and level, set the stationary panel in place in the outside channel (on whichever side you want the stationary panel). Push the panel snugly against the side jamb, then secure it with the brackets provided by the manufacturer.
• Set the active panel in the inside channel, and test it to make sure it rolls smoothly and fits snugly all along the side jamb. If not, adjust the rollers to plumb the door or make it operate properly. Install the latch according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• From inside the house, stuff fiberglass insulation into the gap between the door jamb and the wall framing. Make it snug, but don’t stuff it in too tightly. Install the outside trim, then the interior casing.
• On the outside, caulk around the outside trim where it meets the siding. If necessary, finish the door according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

Door and Frame	Shims
Caulking	Level
Hammer	Carpenter’s Square
Screw Gun	Steel Tape Measure
3″ Drywall Screws	Wood Filler
Caulking Gun	Sawhorses
Fiberglass Sill Sealer	Screwdriver
6d Finish Nails	Finishing Materials
Electric Drill	Drill Bits

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the North American Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

In this document you will find information about:

• Types of Skylights
• Framing the Rough Opening
• Installing the Skylight
• Building the Ceiling Opening and Light Shaft
• Safety Precautions

TYPES OF SKYLIGHTS

• Many people worry about cutting holes in the roof, but adding a skylight is actually easier than installing a window. Most skylights come with flashing systems that will seal the roof effectively. This brochure describes how to install a skylight and build a light well to carry the light into the room.
• There are two basic types of skylights: curb-mounted or frame in place. A curb-mounted skylight is raised above the plane of the roof; it either sets on a wood frame curb or the curb is an integral part of the unit (see image). A framed-in-place skylight is installed flush with the plane of the structure, much like a vertical window. It is held in place with L-shaped brackets (see first image below).
• Curb-mounted skylights may be glazed with a clear acrylic dome or with glass. Framed-in-place skylights are glazed with glass. Either may use insulating glass, and the glazing in top-of-the-line skylights may have low emissivity coatings and argon gas fill for added energy efficiency.
• The flashing system on a curb-mounted skylight typically consists of a head flashing, a sill flashing and two pieces of side flashing that run the length of the skylight (see second image below). The head flashing is slipped under the shingles above the opening. The side flashings are slipped under both the head flashing and the shingles on the side of the unit. The sill flashing goes under the side flashings but is set over the shingles below the skylight. The configuration allows water to run around and off the skylight.
• A framed-in-place skylight also has a solid head and sill flashing, but the side flashing consists of a series of step shingles that match the 5″ exposure of each row of roofing (see second image below). Like a curb-mounted skylight, the head flashing goes under the shingles and the sill flashing goes under them. The step shingles are woven into the roofing, slipped under each shingle.
• Flashings may be made of galvanized steel or aluminum; most are aluminum, often finished to match the color of the skylight frame.

• A skylight framing assembly consists of three parts (see image):
• The roof opening is framed with headers-framing lumber run horizontally across the opening, securely nailed to the rafters to support the structure. Headers are cut from lumber the same size as the rafters.
• A curb-mounted skylight also requires a framed curb, typically 2x6s but usually specified by the skylight manufacturer (the frame has to project far enough to accommodate the flashing). The curb is set on the roof sheathing around the perimeter of the opening, and the skylight is set on the curb.
• The ceiling opening is framed in the same way as the roof opening-headers are nailed between the ceiling joists to support the existing framing. Ceiling headers should be the same size as the ceiling joists.
• The light shaft is the framing that connects the roof opening with the ceiling opening. It is typically framed with 2x4s, insulated like any interior wall and finished on the inside with drywall or other material. The light shaft may be vertical or flared-wider at the bottom than the top. A flared light shaft is a little more difficult to frame but will admit more light.
• To frame the opening for a skylight, first decide on the approximate location of your skylight. It should be roughly centered in the room.
• Next, locate the ceiling joists, then realign the opening so it fits between the joists. Depending on the size of your skylight, you may or may not have to cut the ceiling joists and rafters; many skylights are made to fit between 16″ or 24″ on center joists and rafters without removing any framing.
• Mark the two corners of the ceiling opening closest to the outside wall. Take care to make sure the points are parallel to the wall. The width of the ceiling opening should match the rough opening width of the skylight (specified by the manufacturer). The length will vary, depending on the type of light shaft you want.
• Drill small holes through the ceiling at your marks and push two pieces of stiff wire up into the attic so you can easily spot the location from above.
• Go up to the attic; if possible, bring a 2′ by 4′ piece of plywood with you to lay across the ceiling joists so you won’t accidentally put a foot through the ceiling. Locate your corners and clear the insulation away from the area. If you have to reroute electrical wiring, always turn the power off first and double check by testing a fixture on that circuit with an electrical tester.
• Use a plumb bob to locate the two points on the underside of the roof that are directly above the lower corners of the ceiling opening. Mark those points on the roof (see first image below). Double check to make sure they match the correct rough opening width, then measure up the underside of the roof the specified rough opening length. Drive four nails up through the roof to mark the corners of your rough opening.
• Go up to the roof and remove the shingles from around the opening, far enough to allow room to install the flashing. Snap chalk lines between the nails, then cut away the roofing felt with a utility knife.
• Set your circular saw so the blade depth is slightly more than the thickness of the roof sheathing, then cut away the sheathing and remove it (see second image below).
• How you frame the opening depends on the size and position of your skylight. If the skylight will fit between two existing rafters without cutting, simply cut two headers to fit between the rafters (they should be the same material as the rafters, typically 2x6s) and nail them in place with 16d common nails, flush with the cut edges of the sheathing (see third image below).
• If you have to cut a rafter, framing is a little more complex. First, nail two 2x4s across the rafters to provide temporary support (see fourth image below). The 2x4s should be long enough to reach at least two rafters on each side of the one that will be cut.
• Then use a reciprocating saw to cut the rafter out of the opening 3″ back from the edge of the sheathing on each side. Cut four headers to span the distance between the uncut rafters on each side of the opening. Nail the first pair flush against the two ends of the cut rafter. Use three 16d common nails through the existing rafters into the headers on each end and three more nails through the header into the end of the cut rafter.
• Then nail the second pair of headers in place. Use 16d nails to nail through the existing rafters into the ends of the header and a pair of 8d nails every 16″ to nail the two headers together.

INSTALLING THE SKYLIGHT

• Curb-Mounted Skylight-Build the curb by nailing four 2x6s into a box (the size is specified by the manufacturer). Square it, then toenail it into place over the opening with 8d galvanized nails. Run a bead of caulking all around the top of the curb (unless the manufacturer says not to), then set the skylight in place and fasten it down. Replace the shingles, leaving enough working space between the edge of the shingles and the curb so you can slip the flashing into place.
• Install the sill flashing first, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. As a rule, flashings are nailed into the curb and sometimes cemented to the roof with plastic roof cement, but not nailed to the roof.
• Install the side flashing and fasten it in place. If you’re working with step shingles, slip them under each row of roofing shingles, working your way up from the bottom. Slip the base of the head flashing under the shingles and set it in place over the top of the side flashing. Fasten it in place. Go back to the attic and remove any temporary supports.
• Framed-in-Place Skylight-Mount the brackets on the side of the skylight, set it in the hole and fasten it in place. Make sure the skylight is square and not twisted in the hole.
• Install the flashing as described above, or as specified by the manufacturer. Go back to the attic and remove any temporary supports.

BUILDING THE CEILING OPENING AND LIGHT SHAFT

• From inside the room, find the other two corners of the ceiling opening. Use a carpenter’s square to make sure the opening is square or rectangular. Use a keyhole saw to cut away the drywall.
• Go back up to the attic. If you’ll need to cut a ceiling joist, place temporary supports across the opening as described above, then cut the joist 3″ back from the edge of the drywall. If the light shaft will be flared, cut the joist at the angle of the flare.
• Install headers across the ceiling opening as you did for the roof opening-a single header at each end if no ceiling joists are cut or double headers if a ceiling joist has been removed.

• Use a T-bevel to determine the angle of the rafters and ceiling joists, then cut 2×4 studs for the corners of the light shaft, angled on each end to fit flush against the rafters and ceiling joists. Studs should be placed 16″ on center around the opening; you can use the corner studs as templates for the field studs across the top and bottom of the opening.
• Nail 2×2 cleats to the inside edges of the corner studs to act as backing for the drywall. From the attic, nail rigid foam insulation over the outside of the light shaft; then finish the inside of the shaft with drywall (see image).

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

• Always follow standard safety procedures for working on the roof and using power equipment. When working on the roof, always wear loose, comfortable clothing and rubber-soled shoes. Set your ladder so the base is away from the building 1/4 the height of the ladder plus the width of the soffit. Always wear eye protection when working in the attic and when using power equipment.

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

Skylight and Flashing	Framing for Curb, Roof and Ceiling Headers
1×2 cleats	2x4s for Light Shaft
Drywall	Rigid Foam Insulation
Level	Steel Tape Measure
Utility Knife	Pry Bar
Keyhole Saw	Hammer
Chalk Line	Carpenter’s Square
Nails	Plumb Bob
Circular Saw	Tin Snips
Ladder	Reciprocating Saw
T-Bevel	Try Square
Roof Cement

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the North American Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

Follow these tips and instructions on how to frame and hang doors. Following these instructions can save you time and effort, while helping you to end up with a neater, more satisfactory installation. In this document you will find information about:

• Framing a Door
• Hanging a Door
• Mortising the Door for Hinges
• How to Install a Cylinder Lock

FRAMING A DOOR

• Framing a door is a simple task when you follow a few simple instructions. Decide where each door is to be located when you are installing studs, plates and shoes for a new wall (see image). Follow these same basic instructions when you’re cutting a door through an existing stud wall. Use metal lumber connector brackets to make nailing your door frame together easier.
• The 2×3 or 2×4 that is nailed to the floor to provide a base for the studs is referred to as a “shoe.” The 2x4s placed in an upright position to support the wall are referred to as “studs.” The 2×4 laid on top of the studs is referred to as a “plate.”

• The size of this opening will vary depending on the size of the door you plan to install. A typical door opening is about 2’8″. Measure the door carefully and cut the opening to fit.
• Next, cut and insert studs on each side of the door area (see image). Make this opening the width of the door plus 6″. The extra 6″ allows for the width of the door facing on both sides.

• Now, measure the height of the door to be installed. Cut 2x4s to the height of the door plus 1″. Install these studs on either side of the door as illustrated in the image.
• There are two ways to finish the header area over the door frame. The first is to cut two 2x4s to a length equal to the width of the original opening and insert them to form a header above the door (see image below). Nail these header pieces together securely when they are placed in position.

• Next, measure the distance from the top of the header plate to the ceiling plate and cut “cripple studs” to this length (see first image below). Insert three cripple studs in the space above the door header as illustrated. Toenail these cripple studs to the header above the door and to the plate at the top of the studs.
• The other method is to cut two 2x10s to a width of the original opening. Place 1/2″ plywood spacers between the pieces of 2×10 and nail them together (see second image below). Insert them to form the header above the door (see third image below).
• Insert the door jamb in the space you have now created (see fourth image below). This door jamb is normally purchased ready-cut for installation.
• The fifth image below shows the details on installing a door jamb and casing. Study this drawing carefully before attempting to install the door jamb. These same parts of the jamb are installed whether the jamb is purchased ready-cut or is cut on the job.
• In some cases, the casing on an outside door frame is nailed directly to the studs. In other cases, the casing is nailed over the sheathing. The thickness of the interior wallboard and the sub-sheathing determines how the door jamb is installed.
• Insert a filler strip to make the door jamb fit the installation, if needed.
• Add finish framing to the door after applying the paneling, drywall or other wall material (see fifth image below). Head and side casings finish off the opening for the door.

HANGING A DOOR

• The first step in hanging a door is determining whether it is to be hung right-hand or left-hand. A right-hand door means the hinge is added to the right side, while a left-hand door means the hinge is on the left side.
• The hand of a door is always determined from the outside. For an entrance way, this means the street side.

• The “outside” of an interior door is the side from which the hinges are not available, and the door opens away from you.
• Although you can hang doors accurately without a butt gauge, you may want to acquire this handy tool if you plan to hang many doors. It makes the job much easier (see image above).
• Place the flange of the butt gauge against the jamb or the side of the door as you would a regular T-square (see image). Mark the position where the hinge is to be attached with a scratch awl or a pen knife. This will give you square lines where the hinge is to be attached.

• Determine the width of the hinge to be applied, and set the butt gauge to the correct width (see image). The setback of the hinge is illustrated, too. This is usually about 1/4″. This setback hides the hinge when it is recessed into the door.
• Next, apply the butt gauge to the jamb of the door and mark this same measurement on the jamb.

• The small extension piece on the opposite end of the butt gauge measures the offset for swaged hinges (see image). This space between the leaves of the hinges allows for clearance at the butt edge of the door. If a hinge is not swaged, set the gauge for slightly less than half the thickness of the barrel of the hinge.
• The table below provides a table for determining the size and type of hinge to use on doors of different types.
• Obviously, heavy doors require heavier hinges than light doors, and doors taller than 5′ should have three hinges.
• Loose pin butt hinge specifications for wood doors.Doors larger than 5′ should have three butt hinges, one for ea. 2-1/2 ‘ of height.

DOOR			Butt Hinge Size
Type	Size	Width
Cupboard	3/4″, 7/8″	Up to 24″	2- 1/2″
Screen	7/8″ to 1-1/8″	Up to 36″	3″
Doors	1-1/8″ to 1-3/8″	Up to 32″	3-1/2″
	1-1/8″ to 1-3/8″	32″ to 37″	4″
	1-9/16″, 1-3/4″, 1-1/8″	Up to 32″	4-1/2″
	1-9/16″, 1-3/4″, 1-1/8″	32″ to 37″	5″
	1-9/16″, 1-3/4″, 1-1/8″	37″ to 43″	5″ Ex Heavy
	1-9/16″, 1-3/4″, 1-1/8″	43″ to 50″	6″ Ex Heavy
	2″, 2-1/4″, 2-1’4″	Up to 43″	5″ Ex Heavy
	2″, 2-1/4″, 2-1/4″	43″ to 50″	6″ Ex Heavy

MORTISING THE DOOR FOR HINGES

• Use a small square or a butt gauge to mark the location of the hinge on the door (see image, part A).
• Use a marking gauge to indicate the area of the door that the hinge will not cover (see image, part B). This area is referred to as the gain or setback.

• Next, use a chisel and a rubber or plastic hammer to score the marked area (see image, part A). Be sure the chisel is sharp and the correct size.
• Using the same chisel, make shallow cuts about 1/4″ apart in the marked area (see image, part B). Tap the chisel lightly with the rubber or plastic hammer to make these cuts.
• Use the chisel to remove the surplus wood you have cut away to the depth needed to conceal the hinge in the area (see image, part C).

• This image illustrates a cutaway top view of a 3-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ butt hinge mounted on the door and the side jamb. Follow this same arrangement when installing hinges of any size.
• Use a nail punch or a drill to start the screw holes, both in the door and the door jamb. Pull the leaf of the hinge tightly into place on both the door and the jamb with a good screwdriver.
• Put the door into the correct position, and insert the hinge pins. Tap the pins into place with a rubber or plastic hammer.
• After the door is hung, swing it a few times to check for alignment. Make any adjustments necessary to the door and the hinges for proper positioning. In some cases, a door may need light planing or sanding in a few spots. In other cases, the hinges may need slight adjustments for proper alignment.

HOW TO INSTALL A CYLINDER LOCK

• Instructions for installing a cylinder lock usually accompany the lock you purchase. Follow these mounting instructions carefully, using the template provided with the lock for drilling the holes in the door (see image).
• Instructions on mounting a cylinder lock vary from one manufacturer to another. The hole for any lock is usually drilled at a point 38″ from the floor.
• You can use special adjustable drill bits for drilling holes for the lock, or you may prefer to use a cylinder-type hole drill that works with your power drill. The hole for a cylinder lock is usually about 2-1/8″ in diameter.

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

2x3s (Various Lengths)	Hand Saw
Nails (Various Sizes)	Sawhorses
Door Jamb	Door
T-Square	Expansive Bit
Butt Gauge	Hinges (three per door)
Marking Gauge	Sharp Knife
Rubber or Plastic Hammer	Brace and Bit
Marking Pencil	Lock
Wood Chisel	Cylinder-Type Drill Bit
2x4s (Various Lengths)	Power Saw
1/4″ Paneling	Hammer
Metal Lumber Connectors

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the North American Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

In this document you will find information about:

• Vinyl Replacement Windows
• Features of Vinyl Windows
• Measuring Vinyl Windows
• Installing Vinyl Windows

VINYL REPLACEMENT WINDOW BASICS

• It wasn’t too long ago that vinyl windows were considered a less-than-ideal choice for replacement windows. But advances in design plus improvements in the formulation of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) have made vinyl windows a high-quality product that competes favorably with wood.
• Vinyl windows have always had some advantages over aluminum and steel. Metal is a highly efficient heat conductor-a great property when it comes to pots and pans, but not so slick when you’re talking about window frames. As window glazing has improved, the difference in insulating value between the glass and the frame of a metal window became greater and greater.
• PVC, on the other hand, is a nonconductor of heat. It doesn’t truly insulate like wood, but the design of a vinyl window adds greatly to the frame’s insulating value. The primary reason that insulating glass works is because there is a pocket of trapped air, called dead air space, between the inner and outer panes. Vinyl window frames work on the same principle. The frames are hollow, built with multiple chambers to add strength (see image). Those chambers also trap air and thereby slow heat transfer.

• Good quality vinyl windows are nearly equal to wood windows in their overall insulating value, but not just because of the frames. Compared to old shop-built wood double-hung windows, the factory weatherstripping in modern vinyl windows allows only a fraction of the air leakage around the sash. As a rule, air infiltration is even more important than insulating quality in preventing heat loss.
• Vinyl windows come in a variety of styles, including single- and double-hung (see image above), horizontal sliding (see image), casement, awning and hopper. Sliding patio doors are also available. The color is part of the PVC formula, so vinyl windows never have to be painted. Most come in white and almond, some with woodgrain overlays inside.
• Vinyl windows offer the same style features found on other top-quality windows-divided light grids, decorative glass, tilt-out sash on single- and double-hung units, high-efficiency locking systems, premium configurations such as circle tops, bay and bow units and even brass hardware. Like all vinyl products, they are also maintenance-free.
• A few manufacturers still make dark brown windows, but many have stopped manufacturing dark colors. Despite advances in formulation, vinyl is still more sensitive to temperature variations than other window materials, and dark colors absorb heat more readily than light colors.

FEATURES OF VINYL WINDOWS

• There are differences in the quality of vinyl windows just as there are in any building product. Some of the features that distinguish different windows include:
• Vinyl formulation. Early vinyl windows had problems with extreme expansion and contraction during temperature swings, as well as fading, peeling and cracking when exposed to direct sunlight. Manufacturers have switched to PVC without plasticizers (called UPVC) to minimize movement and developed additives that help resist the ultraviolet rays in sunlight.
• Frame design. Vinyl window frames may be screwed together like aluminum windows, or welded at the corners. Windows with welded frames tend to be sturdier, as well as more energy efficient, since air is sealed inside.
• Glazing. Modern vinyl windows are available with the same high-tech glazing used in top-of-the-line wood windows-insulating glass with low emissivity (low E) coatings (see image), and filled with argon gas to increase insulating value.
• Many states have adopted an energy efficiency rating system for windows developed by the National Fenestration Ratings Council (NFRC). The NFRC rating lists the U-value for the overall window, not just the glass. The lower the U-value, the more energy efficient the window.
• If your house has older wood double-hung windows, vinyl is a good replacement choice and a reasonably easy do-it-yourself project. You don’t have to remove your old windows entirely, because vinyl replacement windows are made to fit in the sash opening.

MEASURING VINYL WINDOWS

• The most important part of the installation procedure comes before you even have your windows. It is critical that you measure your old window opening properly and accurately (see image).
• Vinyl windows are custom-built and can’t be returned if they don’t fit. Most are manufactured in 1/4″ increments, and you’ll want to get the closest fit possible.
• Manufacturers’ measuring instructions vary, but the following procedures are typical.
• To measure the width, raise the lower sash and measure the jamb-to-jamb width in three places-near the top of the window, at the middle and close to the bottom.
• To measure the height, measure from the head jamb to the sloped sill just past where it meets the inside window stool.
• Don’t assume that all your windows are the same size. Draw a rough sketch of your house and number each window you plan to replace, then measure each of them separately.

INSTALLING VINYL WINDOWS

• To install a vinyl replacement window, first remove the old sash. A traditional double-hung window has two sets of removable stops (see image). All have an inside stop that holds the lower (inner) sash in place and a blind stop that separates the two sashes. The outside stop is nailed to the edge of the sash and is not removable.
• Pry off the inside stops carefully so you can reuse them. Cut the sash ropes and remove the lower sash, then pry out the blind stop and remove it. Remove the upper sash.

• Set the replacement window in the opening. It should fit snugly between the stool on the inside and the outside stops of the old window on the outside (see image). If the new window is narrower, you may need to nail a strip of wood to the jamb to fill the gap between the window and the outside stop.
• Some vinyl replacement windows have sloped extrusions on the bottom that match the sloped sill of your old window (see first image below); others are flat. If the bottom of your new window is flat, you may be able to use a piece of lattice or door stop as a support for the front edge of the window (see second image below).
• If not, you’ll have to rip an angled support. To do so, set the window in place in the opening, and measure the gap between the front lower edge of the window and the old sloped sill.
• You can make supports for all your windows at one time. Plane the edge of a board at an angle that roughly matches the slope of the sill, then rip a strip of wood to match the gap. To install the support strip, cut it to length and nail it in place directly beneath the point where the front edge of the new window will rest.
• Center the window in the opening. Use a carpenter’s square to make sure the window is square, then shim the sides of the window directly behind the predrilled screw holes in the jamb. Screw the window in place through the side jambs, then replace the inside stop.
• Go inside and check the window to make sure it operates properly. Then go back outside and run a narrow bead of caulking all around the window to seal the gap at the outside stop.

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

Steel Measuring Tape	Vinyl Replacement Windows
Hammer	Level
Carpenter’s Square	Pry Bar
Screwdriver	Finish Nails
Circular Saw	Straightedge
Caulking Gun	Caulking

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the North American Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.